Petersburg National Battlefield

Saturday, June 25

Petersburg and Hopewell, Virginia on a hot day!

The morning air seemed light and breezy, and I thought we were in for some blessed relief!  Not so much!  We headed early to the Petersburg National Battlefield, deciding after researching the previous evening, that the Eastern Front would be the place to start.  I had knew that on June 10 the visitor center was closed because they did not have air conditioning, but I assumed that would be corrected by now, and was looking forward to what was to be an excellent video explaining the 9 month long siege that occurred here during the Civil War.  Well, still closed!  Could it be they don't HAVE air conditioning???  I find that hard to believe, but realized later that I was so disappointed, I exclaimed "STILL"??  when the gate attendant told us, but never thought to ask.   At any rate, he gave us good advice, and we set out to see the earth works, mounds built up by the soldiers for protection,  and canons,  on a walk we would have done anyway.

Petersburg National Battlefield

                 "I would not have believed before I came here that man was capable of enduring so much."
                                     Leverette Bradley, 1st Massachusetts Heavy Artillery


Lucky to have timed our visit on a day they were demonstrating bugling, we spent some time with a man in soldiers uniform who informed and demonstrated many of the 150 different bugle calls!  Who knew!!  I realized they would wake them up, send them in and put them to bed, but there were calls for each regiment, and section thereof, and to move this way or that, and different sizes of bugles with different sounds for each level of service!   When I remarked it must have been difficult to remember all those calls, a park ranger informed us that they would drill and drill, and in between, drill some more, so they soon learned.  The soldier said  bugle calls would be heard all day during fighting, and I don't remember the number of buglers per soldier, but it was surprising.



Because even the Eastern Front of  the battlefield is extensive, and can be covered by a driving route to the south, we decided to head north to Hopewell first, and see Apomatix Plantation, and what was General Grant's headquarters, and then return for the car tour, which would be back in the direction of our campsite.   (Unfortunately, the Appomatix Courthouse is 2 hours west, so we will not see that this trip....we are headed north of course! ) But the walk was interesting and took us to a giant canon and its powder magazine,   and we could hear the bugler demonstrating to others all the way out, which showed how far reaching his call.


The Dictator
I found this actual photo of The Dictator at the Civil War Museum in Harrisburg!


Appomatix Plantation and General Grant's Headquarters

Grant did not occupy the house, but rather set up tents on the property, and Abraham Lincoln paid a visit, and stood on the doorstep for a handshake and photo shoot with the General.  Of course, I had Clem stand there for a photo!   Large beautiful property out on the tip of a Peninsula, at the convergence of the James and Appomatix rivers, and we were allowed to see a few rooms and view a video inside.  The family had fled in fear and taken many of their belongings, which were stored for four years before their return, so what furnishings were there were original.   There was so much destruction, few homes and buildings remained, so it is rare to get a glimpse of  authentic things.  In t this case, the family and descendants occupied the home until 1976.


             




Lincoln shook hands with Grant on this spot, and is said to have shaken hands with 7000 soldiers during his visit here!


I found this register interesting, with the decorative "box" .  Turned out it was to dry gloves! 

This photo among the artifacts displayed of a woman not allowed to practice medicine, despite her degree, was so typical of the time.  She served as a nurse, and many women disguised them selves as men in order to fight.



Another mostly intact Plantation was not far away, and we decided to tour that before heading back south.   A very awkward docent, dressed in polyester , and carrying her fat disheveled hand bag on her shoulder, ....apparently to handle the sets of keys for the various doors she would show us through, paused and stammered a bit, and often times just stared at us in uncomfortable silence, and we were the only ones on tour!  Still, it was interesting to see a "middling" plantation, where the family was what might be called lower upper class, or upper middle class, reflected in the fact that the mansion was built of wood, rather than brick.  The Georgian architecture, with its symmetry displayed throughout, had intricate wood work and archway on the lower level, which was surprising and attractive.  Furnishings here were not original, but one of the families who lived here during the approach of the war left diaries, and the one from the 12 year old girl has been published.  Oddly, it was not available in the strange gift shop, housed in a recreated laundry outbuilding, filled with boutique clothing and jewelry, not even a souvenir,  and nothing to indicate that it had been a  laundry!  Here the family stayed during the war, and while they were safe, a canon ball did manage to lodge itself between the first and second floors, which was unknown until many years later, when it fell through the ceiling!  A very strange experience of feeling like a waste of time (she was SO slow, and lacked answers to questions) and yet an interesting glimpse into a different lifestyle.  


Photo taken with unidentified Union Soldiers on the lawn.  




After the plantations we were hot and tired and hungry, so we went for late lunch.  Not the choice of restaurants here like in Charleston!  We decided to not trust the few local places ( the ranger suggested an Asian take out place he liked!), and opted for a chain, where at least we knew what we were getting, and it turned out it was healthy,(calorie counts included),  tasty, and quite satisfying! And COOL!!  

We decided to head back and maybe do the rest of the battlefield drive.....or not..... and spied a local movie theatre.  I looked it up, and they had two shows, one being Wonder Woman .....one of the only movies playing lately of any interest.....so we decided to go to a 4:00. 


 "Destination Theatre" shows movies only on weekends, and serves as a church Sunday mornings! The box office beckons you inside to get your ticket.....from the gal who is also serving the popcorn......and one huge space with lots of seats is what greets you when she tells you to just go ahead to the right, and the doors are open. 

Time to head back to the coach, feed the kitties, and call it a night after a full day!  
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Travel day to Petersburg, VA


Friday, June 23.  Travel Day
Petersburg, Virginia

Wow! When it is 86 degrees and supposedly feels like 91, and it feels cool and breezy, you know you have been HOT!!!

It was either raining, or so hot and humid in Charleston, we didn't even sit outside. So it is a pleasure to get the chairs out and sit here with the breeze blowing, and enjoy a relaxing drink!

A few snags today. Clem, used to traveling in the shoulder seasons, decided to wait until this morning to call the campground, and sure enough....full for the weekend. Of course, weekends are especially hard during season. Campground 2, same story, but his last choice location had one site, so he booked it. Now, I tried for weeks to convince him to go another route from Charleston, so I now tried again. No luck! He is determined to go straight!! We have already visited Richmond, so I was up for other places. One of these days I am going to win and not worry about the point A to B route!! But in the meantime, I will choose my battles and go along, and hope we get to go wide on the way back from Maine!

Snag number two, the engine light came on again! Groan! We found a truck stop and pulled in and added more coolant, but are thinking it may be a faulty gauge. Problem is, the gauge sends the message to the engine to cut out! So it cannot be ignored!
Another delay, but we made it the rest of the way with no more issues, and arrived at South 40 Campground near Petersburg, about 40 miles short of Richmond.




Not a great campground, scarce grass and need of gravel, and our picnic table is up on a plateau, but it will do for short stay.  And we have cable and wifi, so all the comforts at a reasonable price  Interestingly, when Clem went to check us in, he was told that we were assigned the more level site adjacent to ours,  but a couple  arrived before we did, were assigned this site and didn't like it,  and decided to just take ours!! They told the office staff they could just move us! No wonder the woman would not make eye contact when I drove in!

Petersburg National Battlefield is nearby, as are some other historic sights, so we may explore this area instead of Richmond, so that should work out.

It occurred to me today while driving and thinking about all the places I want to see yet, that someone had asked after our 7 trips cross country if we had not seen everything there is to see! As I have said before, the problem with my bucket list is that I check one thing off, and add two more! So much to see, and so many things we happen upon!
I'm not sure one could ever do it all.....but I can try!!


A few travel day shots:

We stopped! 

did you make MY lunch?
Stopping for lunch on the highway, brings Sas out of his riding spot.  
We  make lunch with slides in, and take a break from the road.  We have tried to get Sas to ride up front, at least on the couch, and this was a close start, but he soon headed back to the comfort of his cubby under the computer table! Loki doesn't even bother to come out of his cozy corner on the bed!


Finally a blue sky for our last day!

Thursday, June 22

OMG!  Blue Sky!!

Our last day here, and finally it is not raining or threatening to do so!  In fact, we had sunshine and a blue sky, which admittedly would come and go, but it was dry!  I felt starved for exercise, as well as sunshine, and after some housekeeping chores and putting the still wet shoes out in the sun to dry, set out for a good walk, with Clem along ...... at least for a while!  

Still wet from yesterday!

Wow!  Blue sky!


   


We debated visiting one of the plantations, but realized we should have started earlier, so decided to save it for next time.  We opted instead for another lunch out at The Glass Onion, which was on the list of recommended restaurants,  and down the road a bit.  Sort of a casual, farm to table, with menus posted daily on the chalkboard, but perhaps that day uninspired?  After much deliberation, Clem opted for a fried chicken Po boy, and I settled upon the fried green tomato appetizer..which was more than generous, but realized I could have had a salad, which I had not noticed.  A side order of corn bread was pretty tasteless, and I left it uneaten.  Guess it would not be my choice!





I decided it would be a good day to seek out The Angel Tree, a 400 year old Live Oak which proved absolutely amazing, and well worth seeking out!  Unfortunately, we arrived at the same time as a mini bus full of onlookers! After seeing the tree and visiting the small gift shop, they had all left, and I could have gotten photos with fewer people, but at least they give good perspective.







A woman in the shop was making sweet grass baskets, like those we had seen in Charleston.  They are quite lovely, and I am very tempted, but they are very expensive, and I am not sure I want to spend that much for a basket.  I can appreciate the workmanship, and asked how long to make one, to which she said about a day, for one with a price tag of $150.  I guess I should charge more for my painted things!!


Since there was a nearby grocery store we filled the larders while we had the opportunity, as we head out tomorrow.  Our evening stroll around the campground turned up two neighbors from Florida, two giant Rotweilers, several other dogs, and a motherless  baby cow!  We walked to the office for some travel suggestions, and I got more info about the poor little thing, worrying that it was not being cared for as well as it could be, but it turned out he is being bottle fed.  We were fortunate enough to come across that procedure on the walk back to the coach, and chatted with his caretaker, and I felt much better about it!  Such a pretty little creature, with silky black coat, white head, and lovely pink nose....so cute!    

                         

There is still much to see here, we love the charm that is  Charleston,  and Oak Plantation campground is very nice, and we decided we would definitely return.....in a cooler and drier month!

Walking tour of Charleston

Wednesday, June 21

I had booked a city walking tour, Charleston Footprints with 8th generation Charlestonian  Michael Trouche, for this morning, and wondered if we should cancel, given the  forecast, plus the Tropical Storm approaching the gulf coast.  But it was cloudy but dry, so we drove in and met our guide and the rest of the group to begin our exploration of the historic district.    We were enjoying his stories and the sights in the historic district, but about an hour into the 2 hour tour, and it started raining.  And it rained harder and harder!  Streets quickly filled, and our feet were soon soaked, as it became impossible to miss the puddles!   He ducked us under porticos and onto porches where possible, and altered his route, but we pushed on.  I have to say he was very good, very knowledgeable and entertaining, even changing his itinerary, to allow us a bit of shelter, and it was as enjoyable as it could be in our sodden state!   But we were soaked, and pretty miserable! 
Entrepreneurial little girls selling drinks in spite of the rain.  



The market, now, and then!



Old slave market






Of course, it stopped raining just as we finished!  We headed for some lunch, but found the talk of the town  spot called Husk had  an hour wait, so we found Elie’s table around the corner.  I asked the hostess if she had room for two soggy patrons, and she happily seated us right away.  At the recommendation of our waiter, we chose crab cakes, and I had a mushroom and swiss omelet, both of which were very good.  



Husk
Poogan's Porch


Being sated, and  having dried out a bit.....except for our feet.......  we decided to go to the  Nathaniel Russell house for a tour of what is recognized as  one of America's most important Neoclassical houses and a National Historic Landmark.  Built in the early 1800's at a cost of $80,000, it is a beautiful large home, with ornate details which reflected the family's wealth.   Russell made his fortune in the slave trade, but little was made of that on the tour! I was surprised to learn that the majority of the slaves that came into the country, did so through the port of Charleston, once the richest city in the country, and the fifth largest.  All the beautiful old homes are testament to the wealth that was once here.  The home had beautiful gardens, and huge magnolia trees.  Gardening was a favorite pastime of the ladies, and there are many lovely gardens tucked away and sometimes visible through gates throughout the area.  Our docent informed us that most of the plants were non native, brought in from other countries, and often at a cost of more than the residence! 




Beautiful staircase in Nathaniel Russel House....but this silly woman would not stand still so I could get a shot without her in it!


 

Gorgeous trim work throughout.







Still soggy feet!
 It was now around 4pm, and I  thought a treat was in order....feet STILL soaked.....and had read that the best ice cream could be found at Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream shop  on King Street.  Clem was not up for the walk, so we drove, found a parking spot, amazingly, and enjoyed the interestingly flavored  ice cream (salted peanut butter with chocolate chunks and Brambleberry Crisp)  as well as  the neat old buildings with interesting architecture which housed the shops there. 







We passed the  Charleston college and dorm buildings  on the way, so that area is great for the students to walk to and enjoy, and I am sure the shops may have been interesting, but Clem was having none of it! 


Socks drying on entry bar of coach!

 We headed back to the coach, anxious to dry our feet, which were now chilled to the bone despite the warm temps outside, and change into some really dry clothing and relax for the evening.  Tomorrow is another day!